Reiterlesmarkt - Rothenburg O.D. Taub

When most people think of Germany, it seems that they think of Christmas- the Markets, the Glühwein, the decorations, the Lebküchen, all of it.  And they are right.  Starting the first week of advent, the towns bring out their best, they light themselves up, the put up booths, they simmer the wine in amazing spices, and they attract the tourists.  Perhaps none more so than Rothenburg ob der Taub.  Rothenburg is a small city, that is about 30 minutes from my house.

In nearly every guide book I have ever read, Rothenburg is mentioned as a "must see".  It is historically significant, as it was a Free Imperial City throughout the middle ages, and today it's architecture, and culture serve to remind us of what was.  We see life as it would have been living behind the city wall that to this day still completely encircles the town.  We can wander through the castle garden, and even down into what was the old moat (now totally empty, of course.  There are numerous covered bridges, and watch towers that you can climb up and walk into throughout the city - there are funny little doors all around, and beautiful churches, statues and fountains sprinkled about.

Last night we went to the Reiterlesmarkt (the Rothenburg Weihnachtmarkt).  We got to Rothenburg shortly before sunset, and before the crowds really came out - the merchants were just opening up in the Markt, and we were not crowded at all!  Later at night, more and more people come out, and on the weekends, the crowds will have you nearly shoulder to shoulder.  Rothenburg's market is not huge, it is not its size that makes it special.  It is special because of what it is - the booths are a bit more unique, a little more upscale than some other places.

 Not all the booths, are in the main square, in fact, most of the booths wind around the block behind the Rathalle, and they fill smaller, less well known courtyards.  There is a section that is for only hand made items - this is my favorite part - walking into a hallway, with evergreen branches everywhere you look, and the smell is just heavenly - the branches, the Glühwein, the candied nuts - I treasure the memory of that smell, it is the epitome of Christmas to me.

Have you ever been to Rothenburg?  What is your favorite experience there?

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Venice. . . At Night. . .

Don't get me wrong.  Venice was beautiful in the day time.  During the daytime in Venice, you can lose yourself in the details, in the small stuff, you can stare at Mosaics and Carvings for hours on end, you can stare wistfully out to sea.  At night - it's a little bit different.  I was wary of Venice when we got there, hearing stories of pick pocketers, etc, however when I got there, I actually did feel completely at ease, and not restless and anxious as I normally do in crowded areas.  The ONLY time I was at all uncomfortable was when we were trying to eat lunch, and the waiters were out in front of their restaurants, very aggressively trying to persuade us to go inside their establishment and eat.  At night, the stores light up, and we were lucky enough to see some of the Natale (Christmas) lights come on.  At night, the vendors are still out hocking their goods, but they add glow in the dark, which somehow makes it a little more fun.  At night, you lose sight of the decay, of the dirt, of the trash.

When we got to Venice, it was about noon - by the time we left, it was after 6pm - which was perfect for witnessing a glorious, "typical" Venetian sunset, with hot pink and orange clouds against a pastel blue sky.  The shop lights all came on, and suddenly what was not necessarily so clear in the daytime became outright vibrant at night.

People move a little quicker at night, but as ever, they are stuck in "Venetian" time - which means absolutely nothing compared to real time.  After we disembarked from our Gondola, we asked how far it was back to the parking garage.  We were told it was just a 10 minute walk, so we decided to hoof it, rather than wait and catch another water bus (and save ourselves $28 in fares).  By walking, we were able to see the inside of the islands, away from the canals.  

While we were walking, we noticed that both the shops and the masks they were selling seemed to be getting much more intricate.  You can buy the most amazing masks - some plastic and cheap, the good ones are paper mache, and not cheap. . . but all are beautiful!   This was the one souvenir I allowed myself besides the multitudes of pictures taken - I mean, who can go to Venice and not want a mask of their own?  

We interacted with the merchants (usually trying to bargain with them, without success ...), and we walked, and we walked, and we walked some more.  What was supposedly a 10 minute walk, and after twenty minutes we stopped again and asked - this time we were told it was only a 5 minute walk, and so we kept walking for OVER AN HOUR!  

That was the longest 10 minute walk of my life.  BUT, despite being crazy cold, I don't regret a step of it!  Had we not walked, we would have never have seen any of the inside of the islands, and we would have nothing to complain about!!!  Now, I can appreciate it, and whine at the same time.  

If possible, I would highly suggest taking in Venice at night.  Venice at night, on a warm evening I imagine would be pretty close to perfection.  Be it by Bus, Gondola or foot, it is worth it.  Make the effort - you won't be sorry!

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