Reiterlesmarkt - Rothenburg O.D. Taub

When most people think of Germany, it seems that they think of Christmas- the Markets, the Glühwein, the decorations, the Lebküchen, all of it.  And they are right.  Starting the first week of advent, the towns bring out their best, they light themselves up, the put up booths, they simmer the wine in amazing spices, and they attract the tourists.  Perhaps none more so than Rothenburg ob der Taub.  Rothenburg is a small city, that is about 30 minutes from my house.

In nearly every guide book I have ever read, Rothenburg is mentioned as a "must see".  It is historically significant, as it was a Free Imperial City throughout the middle ages, and today it's architecture, and culture serve to remind us of what was.  We see life as it would have been living behind the city wall that to this day still completely encircles the town.  We can wander through the castle garden, and even down into what was the old moat (now totally empty, of course.  There are numerous covered bridges, and watch towers that you can climb up and walk into throughout the city - there are funny little doors all around, and beautiful churches, statues and fountains sprinkled about.

Last night we went to the Reiterlesmarkt (the Rothenburg Weihnachtmarkt).  We got to Rothenburg shortly before sunset, and before the crowds really came out - the merchants were just opening up in the Markt, and we were not crowded at all!  Later at night, more and more people come out, and on the weekends, the crowds will have you nearly shoulder to shoulder.  Rothenburg's market is not huge, it is not its size that makes it special.  It is special because of what it is - the booths are a bit more unique, a little more upscale than some other places.

 Not all the booths, are in the main square, in fact, most of the booths wind around the block behind the Rathalle, and they fill smaller, less well known courtyards.  There is a section that is for only hand made items - this is my favorite part - walking into a hallway, with evergreen branches everywhere you look, and the smell is just heavenly - the branches, the Glühwein, the candied nuts - I treasure the memory of that smell, it is the epitome of Christmas to me.

Have you ever been to Rothenburg?  What is your favorite experience there?

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A Tavola Non Si Invecchia

The loose translation of this is , "At the table with good friends and family you do not become old."  How true is that!  As we age, we lose parts of ourselves, but sitting around a table with loved ones, the memories abound, and what we have forgotten, our families and friends help us to remember.  

In Italy, we have been so very, very fortunate.  We have family here, and through Auntie Heather, we have friends down here, none more so that Mimi.  Mimi runs the most amazing seafood restaurant that I have ever been to, the world over! (Il Lurido in Rimini - I can NOT recommend it enough!)  We are spoiled there, and through the love in both her cooking, and her fawning over us all, we have all become true seafood lovers!  

THIS is the real Italy.  It is not a tourist destination.  It's a little restaurant in the old fisherman's section of town. 


 Mimi lovingly decorates the entire restaurant, in the spring it is beautiful, however now, decorated for Christmas, it is breathtaking.  Mimi loves her restaurant, Mimi loves her job, Mimi loves her patrons, and quite simply, it shows.  Every year when we come to visit, she remembers us, and she dotes on us, and she has formed a special bond with my daughter - this year they traded bracelets.  Mimi became a great-grandmother this year, and still she loves us like her own as well.

When we come to visit, Mimi and her staff not only serve each and every item on the menu to us for us to try, but they make special items for us that are so amazing - words fail completely.  

Thank you for reading about our adventures - as always, please, leave a comment, share your experiences, ask a question, whatever!

Venice. . . At Night. . .

Don't get me wrong.  Venice was beautiful in the day time.  During the daytime in Venice, you can lose yourself in the details, in the small stuff, you can stare at Mosaics and Carvings for hours on end, you can stare wistfully out to sea.  At night - it's a little bit different.  I was wary of Venice when we got there, hearing stories of pick pocketers, etc, however when I got there, I actually did feel completely at ease, and not restless and anxious as I normally do in crowded areas.  The ONLY time I was at all uncomfortable was when we were trying to eat lunch, and the waiters were out in front of their restaurants, very aggressively trying to persuade us to go inside their establishment and eat.  At night, the stores light up, and we were lucky enough to see some of the Natale (Christmas) lights come on.  At night, the vendors are still out hocking their goods, but they add glow in the dark, which somehow makes it a little more fun.  At night, you lose sight of the decay, of the dirt, of the trash.

When we got to Venice, it was about noon - by the time we left, it was after 6pm - which was perfect for witnessing a glorious, "typical" Venetian sunset, with hot pink and orange clouds against a pastel blue sky.  The shop lights all came on, and suddenly what was not necessarily so clear in the daytime became outright vibrant at night.

People move a little quicker at night, but as ever, they are stuck in "Venetian" time - which means absolutely nothing compared to real time.  After we disembarked from our Gondola, we asked how far it was back to the parking garage.  We were told it was just a 10 minute walk, so we decided to hoof it, rather than wait and catch another water bus (and save ourselves $28 in fares).  By walking, we were able to see the inside of the islands, away from the canals.  

While we were walking, we noticed that both the shops and the masks they were selling seemed to be getting much more intricate.  You can buy the most amazing masks - some plastic and cheap, the good ones are paper mache, and not cheap. . . but all are beautiful!   This was the one souvenir I allowed myself besides the multitudes of pictures taken - I mean, who can go to Venice and not want a mask of their own?  

We interacted with the merchants (usually trying to bargain with them, without success ...), and we walked, and we walked, and we walked some more.  What was supposedly a 10 minute walk, and after twenty minutes we stopped again and asked - this time we were told it was only a 5 minute walk, and so we kept walking for OVER AN HOUR!  

That was the longest 10 minute walk of my life.  BUT, despite being crazy cold, I don't regret a step of it!  Had we not walked, we would have never have seen any of the inside of the islands, and we would have nothing to complain about!!!  Now, I can appreciate it, and whine at the same time.  

If possible, I would highly suggest taking in Venice at night.  Venice at night, on a warm evening I imagine would be pretty close to perfection.  Be it by Bus, Gondola or foot, it is worth it.  Make the effort - you won't be sorry!

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Venezia, Parte Duo

Basilica di San Marco

After we rode the Water Bus out to Piazza San Marco, we decided to look around for a while on foot.  The first thing we saw up close and personal was the Bridge of Sighs.  As you can imagine, this is one crowded spot!  After being polite and letting many take their pictures, I finally was able to push my tripod and myself up to the edge of the bridge.

Gondolier Under the Bridge of Sighs

I set up my tripod (yes, I am kind of a geek with it lately), and this is what I found.  Though we went in the middle of December, on a FREEZING cold day the crowds were, as always present.  After the bridge of Sighs, we kept walking towards Piazza San Marco.

Basilica di San Marco

When you walk towards the square, immediately your eyes are drawn to the impressive Basilica di San Marco.  Not only is the Cathedral HUGE, but the mosaics, and the marble pillars are astounding.  The colors of marble are almost unreal - I just kept thinking "THIS is what people are always trying to recreate when they paint faux marble," and the faux stuff is nothing compared to the real thing.  These marbles are rare, and to say they are expensive, would be an understatement.  

Entrance to the Basilica di San Marco

The mosaics along the Basilica draw you in, you could spend hours just looking at those alone.  So - in an effort to see the "big picture" I focused on the sheer magnitude of this beautiful Basilica - the home of the Venezian Archdiocese.
That said - the main entrance to the Basilica has a bit of everything - the Byzantine architecture, the awe-inspiring mosaics, and the multiple hues of marble.  This is where you wait in line to enter the Basilica - they ask you not to take pictures, though most tourists ignore the big signs.  I did not.  I figure of all places to disregard the rules, this was NOT the place to push my boundaries.

Inside the Basilica is HUGE.  The domes are gorgeous - however the recent flooding in Venice took its toll, and you can see the high water marks on the pillars throughout the church.  Overall, I was kind of sad in there - here was this major church, arguably one of the most famous and beautiful Catholic Churches, and it was flat out dirty.  It looked to me like it had not been dusted in years.  Like most of Venice, I imagine it was absolutely stunning at one time, and has just fallen into a state of benign neglect.

Torre dell'Orologio

Adjacent to the Basilica di San Marco, is a beautiful Glockenspiel of sorts - it is a clock that not only tells time, but the phases of the moon, and has moving characters - some on the hour, some only on religious holidays.  You can take tours up to the top here, but we did not - the kids were losing their steam fast, and getting hungry, so we sojourned to lunch.  We ate at the Rosso Pomodoro - which is an Italian chain - somewhat similar to Olive Garden - but infinitely better!

After walking around for a bit and eating lunch, we decided that it was time to explore more of Venice, again by foot. . .

Once you leave the main square, things get a bit . . . more tightknit.  The streets are narrow - the shops awnings nearly reach across and touch each other.    Also here, the back channels are smaller.  They are more personal, they are narrow, and they are much more what I consider the "real" Venice.  They are not facades to impress, they are every day life.  They are good times, they are bad times, and they are what history is made of.  It was through wandering through these smaller paths that we came across a Gondolier, packing up to go home for the evening, and willing to make a good deal.


  Normally, from anywhere near Piazza di San Marco you will pay 100 euro and up for just a 20 minute ride - this is NOT the place to catch a Gondola.  Go down the small streets, find someone dropping off another person - more likely than not, they have to go back to wherever their base is anyways, and are more willing to haggle down their prices.  Note that the Gondolas are paid by time, not by distance. . .

That said - price considered - I am so happy that we found our Gondolier, and that we went on the unexpected Gondola ride from just behind Piazza di San Marco all the way out past the Rialto Market.  Our guide was great, he pointed out the famous buildings, he showed us where movies were filmed, "The Tourist" and "007" in particular.  He showed us the birthplace of Marco Polo, and showed us a side of Venice that you just can't see with the Water Bus.  















The other side of Venice is definitely different.  It is dirtier, it is less maintained, it is where you can easily see the havoc that millenia of tidal waters have played on this wonderful city.  You can see what must have been, and what could be again, if one had infinite resources.  But like so much else, the Sea is greedy.  The Sea will claim what she can, and lay waste to the remains.  I feel so lucky that I was able to take my children to venice, to see both sides of the coin, and to appreciate her for what she is.

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Venezia - Part One - The bus ride!

And on we go to Venezia!!!  Perhaps I should apologize for the title - at no time was I ever on an actual bus - we DID however take a water bus throughout Venice.  I should warn you that Venice has been a bucket list kind of place for me for the past five years or so.  The romance, the beauty, the contradiction, all of it.  Finally, I got my chance, and talked my most wonderful personal tour guide, Zia Heatherina, into going with us for the day up to Venezia.  This is a big city - in expectation, and in reality.  Venice is so big, in fact, that I am going to break this down into three parts - the bus ride, walking and the gondola ride, and finally, Venice at night.  I have SO MANY amazing photographs, it is hard to choose the best of them, and so hard to post without going completely overboard.

Houses on the Grand Canal
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

We all grow up hearing how Venice is sinking - we grow up hearing that the water is dirty, and yet the romance of it all overcomes that.  The romance of Venice makes us willing to put up with insane crowds, and constant flooding.  We tolerate the pushy waiters, and the hustlers just to be a part of it all.  For that moment, we have made it, for that moment, we are in Venice.  We can travel back to the renaissance, and see the works of the masters.  We can visit the museos, and be stunned by works of art that previously we have only read about in school text books.  For that moment, we are a part of history, we are living not only our dreams, but the dreams of those who have always wanted to, but never will get to see it in person.

Santa Maria della Salute
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

We started our day out on the water bus - you can take it one way from the parking plaza out to San Marcos Square for 7 euro per person.  There are other ways out there - but this will take you down the Grand Canal, and stop about 20 times along the way.  As we travel around Italy, I always have my kindle with me - and on it, i have a few different tour books, so that surely wherever I am is covered by someone.  I have found that this is a great way to travel.  Second only to having a private tour guide.

The Ponte Rialto (Rialto Bridge)
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

One of the many stops along the water bus route, is the Rialto Market - the old fish market.  Adjacent to this market is the famous Ponte Rialto (Rialto Bridge).  This was one of the places I had always heard about, and really wanted to see.  Unfortunately, as our boat rounded the bend, we saw it.  Yes, we can imagine the glory it once had, but sadly today, as you can see, it is covered with Graffiti.  As our Gondolier later told us, though Graffiti is rampant, it is not a Venetian thing, and real venetians treat it not only as breaking the law, but as a crime against Venice herself.  So sad that such beauty and history is marred by a bunch of idiots with a spray can.

Piazza San Marco (W)
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

Piazza San Marco (E)
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

A few minutes later you arrive at San Marcos Square.  While there is a round trip tour you can take, it will cost you 28 euro per person, and really accomplishes the same thing as the one way ticket, for 1/2 the price, literally.  Yes, you do miss out on someone blethering in your ear all the time, for the most part about places you don't care about, or have never heard of, but you do get there.


The final sight you really see when you reach the second Piazza San Marco bus stop (and final stop for the one way ticket) are the Bridge of Sighs.  This was the bridge that the prisoners were brought over for their final views of their beloved Venezia, before being taken away to prison.  It's a tiny little bridge, high above the water, but so beautiful, and so strong with emotion.  I can't imagine what it must have felt like to see your city for one final time, knowing you would never see your loved ones, or your city again. . .

The Bridge of Sighs as Seen from the Water
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

Venice is a funny place.  At the time I was there, I was excited, I was expectant, I was thankful for the experience, I was sad at the state of things there, and I walked away thinking "Ok, cool, been there, done that, don't feel the need to go back" - but as I sit here writing about it, I find myself romanticizing it already, and scheming on how to go back.  I can't explain it - perhaps that is part of the dichotomy of Venice.  So beautiful, yet so ugly; so loved, yet so neglected, etc, etc, etc.

Stay tuned for the next part of our Venetian Adventure!

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San Leo and San Marino

We thought "Sure, let's go to San Marino, it's an easy trip," and as we got to the turn off for San Marino, we decided to go a bit futher, and check out the Artists Colony of San Leo.  Brilliant choice!  San Leo is just outside of Rimini, just east of the Republic of San Marino, and it is a world all to itself.  You drive up the crazy steep and narrow road, and the moment you cross under the arch, you are greeted with this iconic Italian scene.

Main Street in San Leo
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

I am afraid that my words will not do this amazing hilltop town any justice.  This is the kind of town that fills tourists head with dreams of moving to Italy and breaking away from it all.

San Leo shops
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

San Leo is what comes to mind when you think of a rural Italian town.  The streets are narrow and cobbled.  The shops are tiny (and God help you if you get there after 2, when everything closes for the afternoon), the people are friendly, and the views are breathtaking.

San Leo Roses
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

Even in the middle of winter, there is still color, and there is still beauty in this remote little town.  The roses were blooming, and there were even a few Geraniums still blooming in their  draping window boxes.  Even the air itself was different out there.  As we drove through the countryside, it was 40 degrees f, and I still had the windows down, just breathing in the wonderful smelling, clean air.

Castle above San Leo
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

San Leo Natale Decorations
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

Immediately above the village, there is a fortress. It is beautiful, and in the summer it sits with giant flags flying.  Today it looked a bit cold and lonely.    The rest of the town is decked out for the holidays, in small, but beautiful ways.

The Eastern view from the top of San Marino
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

After leaving the beautiful, and dream inspiring San Leo, we went up to the Republic of San Marino.  San Marino is it's own hill, about 20 minutes directly east of Rimini, and while they accept the Euro as currency, they are a seperate and sovereign nation, and not a member of the EU.  Once upon the time, The Republic of San Marino had banking laws that were not unlike Switzerland - and they became a haven for those who were seeking to store their money privately, or to dodge and evade taxes.  With the current Italian fiscal situation, they have cracked down on San Marino, and specifically, they have cracked down on Italians keeping their money there - this is leaving a somewhat uncertain future for this beautiful country within a country.

The NW view from the Republic of San Marino
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

When you drive into san Marino all you see are big houses, and a steep, steep mountain.  As you drive up farther, you see more houses, and then you realize that you are driving into a castle.  Even on the best days parking can be a bear, so watch out for that.

As you walk up the street, there are tons and tons of kitschy touristy shops, hocking everything from jewelry to pizza, leather bags, and everything in between.  Remember, every price here, aside from the food, is negotiable.  

The castle on top of San Marino, Republic of San Marino
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

If you keep walking up the hill, you will eventually arrive at the castle.    Did I mention it is at the TOP of the hill?  By the time I got up there, my fear of heights that quite honestly had only bothered me perhaps two other times in my life had come into play  -  combine that, with the fact that the castle charges 3 euro to enter, I figured it was about the perfect time to turn around, and go back to the car!  

Where San Leo is beautiful, and authentic, and quite happy to be off by itself, San Marino is clamoring for tourist money - they even have created their own Vampire Museum - not sure why, but they did.  We left San Leo with the desire to go back again, and to bring friends and family - we left San Marino saying "well, been there, done that".  The views are amazing, and I am happy that we went, but beyond that, ehhhh.  I have no desire to really go back, and wouldn't take the time out of my day to take friends or family, but that's just me.

The castle above San Marino, Republic of San Marino
(c) 2012 The Wandering Mama

Thank you for reading about our adventures - as always, please, leave a comment, share your experiences, ask a question, whatever!

Italia, Where to Begin?

Yesterday was day 2 of our last minute "Invade Italy, 2012" trip.  We drove down in 8 hours, and are staying in our amazing hotel on the beach here in Rimini!  Rimini is a funny town - it tried to be the Italian version of Ibiza, but with the clubs came lots of drugs and darker elements, so now, 20 years later the town is struggling to clean itself up.  They have done an amazing job - this is the town we come to unwind in.  The beach is gorgeous, and quite literally goes on for miles - the Adriatic Sea is breathtaking, and the food - well - the food is beyond anything most people can imagine.  I am getting SO ahead of myself though.  I am going to try and take this trip day by day - and maybe even more than that - as some towns deserve multiple entries on their own.  For the life of me, I have never figured out how some guidebooks ignore this area completely, and others give it a mere page or two. . . I guess if you stick to just the tourist spots you could do that.  We avoid those places :)

In the afternoon, we drove just a bit up the coast, and went to Ravenna.  Ravenna is known by and large for two main things : BEAUTIFUL mosaics, and the tomb of Dante Allegheri  I don't want to overload this blog with photos - so, choosing just my very favorites is my mission - one picture for each place - I will probably expand upon each place in a later post though, I was so amazed here!

Basilica di Santa Maria en Porto

We started out in Ravenna, walking the Via Roma.  There are street signs here, but they aren't always easily understood, so we figured the best way to find anything was to go on foot, and stay close.  Thankfully, most of the major sights are well within easy walking distance (even with a 3 year old in tow).  We parked by the Museum of Art, and off we went!  We walked past the Basilica di Santa Maria en Porto - there were worshippers there, and I really do not want to bother someone in prayer.  Pretty sure it's frowned upon.

We continued on our walk, down to the Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo.  You know that saying good things in small packages?  Well, the package was not small, but it was most definitely unassuming.  It looked like a plain brick church from the front, not much special.  Then, after you pay your 9.50 to enter (you buy a ticket that gives you access to 5 UNESCO World Heritage Sights, and is valid for 7 days)  This is what we found INSIDE. . . The Basilica is STUNNING!  The mosaics inside defy words - such artistry, so much love and time spent.  My photos do not give any of it the justice it deserves!

 Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo

Next, we went to the Tomb of Dante Allegheri.  After being pushed out of Firenze, Dante spent his days in hiding in Ravenna.  Even after his death, the monks still hid his remains for a few hundred years before entombing him next to their monastery.  At the end of this little alley, is the Tomb.


Inside of the tomb, if you look directly above your head, you will see a lit oil lamp.  To this day, Firenze is still paying a pennance of sorts for their persecution of the author of "Inferno".  The oil for the lamp in the tomb is provided by the city of Firenze every year.





When the Germans occupied Ravenna during WWII, Dante's remains were again put into hiding, as the monks chose to bury his body under a pile of soil and plants in the courtyard adjacent to the tomb, so that his remains could not be desecrated, or taken by the German soldiers.


Ravenna, as I said before is known for it's Mosaics.  Not all Mosaics are on Cathedral ceilings.  There are many artisans that do all kinds of amazing work there, from wall hangings, to dishes, to lord knows what else.  As we were walking towards Dante's tomb, I found my favorite Mosaic piece.  Apparently it is other peoples favorite as well, because they had to lock it down with the blue bicycle lock that you see attached to it!

From there we wandered around beautiful, if poorly marked streets, and found our way to what appeared to be a HUGE amazing church - surely, it was so big that it had to be part of what we needed to see!  It wasn't!  IT was huge, it was beautiful, but it was just the duomo (HA!  Never thought I would say something was JUST a duomo) - the small, octagonal building next to it was what we were really trying to find.  It was the Battistero Neoniano.

The Duomo - this is still very much an active church!

Did I mention that the sun was out?  The entire day was NOT warm, but we did have the sun!  I miss the sun.  In Germany, we are so far north that even if you were outside all day long, the sun is simply not strong enough for your body to begin to synthesize vitamin D at all!  I LOVE VITAMIN D.  This California Girl is seriously solar powered.


No wonder I love it down here in Italy.  The climate here in Northern Italy is SO similar to what it is like where i grew up in Northern California - I always feel like a part of me is coming home when we travel down here!

The Duomo again, as seen from the Battistero Neoniano

Originally built on a roman bath site, the battistero is actually over 4 stories, however 3 of those stories are now underground, and inaccessible to the average bear .  Ah well, the one floor of it that we did get to see what amazing.  The mosaics are otherworldly!  And they even have a bronze cross on display from around 688 or so AD!

The ceiling of the Battistero Neoniano.  The scene is depicting Christ being baptised by John the Baptist - I think my favorite part of it, though is if you look off to the side of the centerpiece, you will see a man holding a cloth for Christ to wear - that man is actually the spirit of the river.  Roman mythology meet Christianity!

One of the alcoves inside the Battistero Neonian

We thought we were leaving at this point.  We really did.  And then we saw it.  We saw the Basilica di Sant'Apollinare en Classe.

my dad was kind enough to know that I REALLY wanted to see this church, so he offered for my mom and him to take the kids to the park, while I went inside, and shot pictures of the Basilica all by myself!  It was stunning!  This will have it's own blog post, because there is just too much to share on this page by itself.

Basilica di Sant'Apollinare en Classe

Basilica di Sant'Apollinare en Classe.

Basilica di Sant'Apollinare en Classe.

Basilica di Sant'Apollinare en Classe.